For watch enthusiasts and collectors, certain phrases evoke instant recognition and a sense of horological prestige. "Red Face Submariner" is undoubtedly one of them. More accurately known as the "Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 with red writing," this vintage timepiece represents a significant chapter in the Submariner lineage and holds a special place in the hearts of those who appreciate fine watches. This comprehensive guide delves into the captivating world of the Red Submariner, exploring its history, variations, collectibility, and everything you need to know about this iconic dive watch.

What is the Red Face Submariner? Unveiling the Legend

The term "Red Face Submariner" is a colloquial name for the Rolex Submariner reference 1680, specifically those models produced between approximately 1969 and 1975. What sets these Submariners apart and earns them their distinctive nickname is the word "Submariner" printed in vibrant red on the dial. This seemingly small detail transformed a tool watch into a highly sought-after collectible, symbolizing a transitional period in Rolex's history.

Prior to the reference 1680, Submariners were primarily focused on functionality, with dials featuring only depth ratings and no date complication. The 1680 marked a significant evolution, introducing the date function to the Submariner line and, for a brief period, incorporating the striking red text. This combination of features – date complication and red lettering – makes the Red Submariner a unique and historically important model.

A Brief History: From Tool Watch to Collectible Icon

To truly appreciate the Red Submariner, understanding its historical context within the broader Submariner narrative is crucial. The Rolex Submariner was first introduced in 1953, designed as a robust and reliable tool for divers. Over the years, it evolved, incorporating advancements in materials and technology while retaining its core DNA as a professional dive watch.

The introduction of the reference 1680 in the late 1960s was a pivotal moment. It marked the first Submariner model to feature a date complication, indicated by a Cyclops lens over the date window at 3 o'clock. This addition broadened the Submariner's appeal beyond purely professional divers, attracting a wider audience who appreciated its ruggedness and now, added practicality.

The red text "Submariner" was a stylistic flourish, perhaps intended to highlight the model's name or simply to add a visual element. However, this design choice was relatively short-lived. Around 1975, Rolex transitioned to using white text for the "Submariner" inscription on the ref. 1680 dials, marking the end of the "Red Submariner" era. This limited production period is a primary reason for its desirability among collectors today.

Why the "Red Face" Matters: Rarity, Collectibility, and Investment Potential

The Red Submariner isn't just a vintage Rolex; it's a highly coveted collector's item. Several factors contribute to its allure and elevated market value:

• Rarity: The relatively short production run of Red Submariners (approximately 6 years) makes them significantly rarer than later Submariner models. This scarcity naturally drives up demand in the collector market.
• Transitional Model: The ref. 1680 itself was a transitional model, bridging the gap between the earlier no-date Submariners and the later, more modern iterations. The red text dials represent a specific, limited phase within this transition, further enhancing their uniqueness.
• Historical Significance: As the first Submariner with a date function and the distinctive red lettering, the Red Submariner holds a significant place in Rolex's history. It represents a key step in the evolution of one of the most iconic watches ever created.
• Aesthetic Appeal: The red "Submariner" inscription provides a striking contrast against the black dial, adding a touch of vintage charm and visual interest that many collectors find incredibly appealing. This pop of color distinguishes it from later, more monochromatic Submariners.
• Investment Grade: Due to their rarity, historical importance, and enduring appeal, Red Submariners have consistently appreciated in value over time. They are considered a solid investment in the world of vintage watches, often outperforming other collectibles.

Decoding the Dial: Identifying Red Submariner Variations (Marks)

Within the Red Submariner family, subtle variations exist, known as "Marks." These variations, primarily concerning the dial printing, can significantly impact a watch's value and desirability. Collectors meticulously study these Marks to identify specific production periods and dial characteristics. While the exact number of Marks is debated among experts, a common classification system identifies several distinct dial variations. Understanding these Marks is crucial for serious collectors:

Commonly Recognized Red Submariner Marks (Simplified Overview):

• Mark I (Mk I): Characterized by a "closed" 6 in the depth rating (660ft). The "f" in "ft" is typically shorter and squatter. The coronet (Rolex crown logo) is often slightly less defined compared to later Marks.
• Mark II (Mk II): Features an "open" 6 in the depth rating. The "f" in "ft" is generally taller and thinner than Mk I. The coronet tends to be more crisp and defined.
• Mark III (Mk III): Similar to Mk II in terms of the "open 6" and "taller f," but subtle variations in font spacing and serifs can be observed. The coronet remains well-defined.
• Mark IV (Mk IV): Often considered a transition mark. May exhibit characteristics of both earlier and later Marks. Dial printing can sometimes appear slightly less sharp.
• Mark V (Mk V): Represents a later production period. Font styles and spacing may differ slightly from earlier Marks. The red text can sometimes appear a shade lighter.
• Mark VI (Mk VI) & Mark VII (Mk VII): These are generally considered later "service" dials or dials produced very late in the Red Submariner production run. They often exhibit characteristics that are less desirable to purists, such as slightly different font styles or coronet shapes. These marks are sometimes debated in terms of their "true" Red Submariner status.

Important Note: Identifying Red Submariner Marks requires a keen eye and often comparison with known examples. Subtle differences in font shapes, spacing, and the coronet are key indicators. Numerous online resources, forums, and books dedicated to Rolex watches provide detailed visual guides to help differentiate between Marks. Consulting with experienced vintage Rolex dealers is also highly recommended for accurate identification.

The Movement Powering the Legend: Caliber 1575

Beneath the iconic dial and robust case of the Red Submariner beats the Rolex caliber 1575 movement. This automatic, chronometer-certified movement was a workhorse for Rolex during this period, known for its reliability, accuracy, and longevity. The caliber 1575 powered various Rolex models, including Datejusts and GMT-Masters, showcasing its versatility and robustness. Understanding the movement is another aspect of appreciating the Red Submariner's horological value.

Key features of the Caliber 1575 include:

• Automatic winding: Self-winding mechanism powered by the motion of the wearer's wrist.
• Chronometer certification: Officially certified for accuracy by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC).
• Date complication: Provides the date function visible through the Cyclops lens.
• High beat frequency: Typically 19,800 vibrations per hour (vph), contributing to accuracy.
• Robust construction: Designed for durability and reliability, consistent with Rolex's reputation.

Buying a Red Submariner: Navigating the Vintage Market

Purchasing a Red Submariner requires careful consideration and due diligence, as you are entering the vintage watch market where authenticity and condition are paramount. Here are essential factors to keep in mind:

• Authenticity: This is the absolute top priority. Counterfeit vintage Rolex watches are prevalent. Buy from reputable dealers specializing in vintage Rolex. Seek out watches with provenance, such as original papers or service history. Thoroughly research the seller and their reputation.
• Condition: Condition significantly impacts value. Assess the dial, hands, case, bezel, and bracelet. Look for signs of wear and tear, but be wary of over-polished cases or heavily damaged dials. "Original" and "unpolished" are highly desirable terms in vintage watch collecting, but realistically, some wear is expected on a watch of this age.
• Matching Mark: Identify the dial Mark and ensure it aligns with the expected production period and case serial number. Mismatching dials can indicate a service replacement, which can affect value.
• Original Parts: Ideally, the watch should retain as many original parts as possible, including the dial, hands, bezel insert, and bracelet. Service replacements are sometimes unavoidable, but originality is prized by collectors.
• Movement Condition: Inquire about the service history of the movement. A recently serviced watch from a reputable watchmaker is a plus. Ensure the movement is running smoothly and accurately.
• Price and Market Value: Research current market prices for Red Submariners of similar condition and Mark. Prices vary widely based on condition, dial Mark, and included accessories (box, papers). Be prepared to pay a premium for well-preserved and authentic examples.
• "Full Set": A "full set" typically includes the original box, papers (warranty certificate, booklets), and accessories. Full sets command a significant premium due to their rarity and completeness.

Where to Buy:

• Reputable Vintage Watch Dealers: Specialized dealers with expertise in vintage Rolex are the safest option. They often offer authentication services and warranties.
• Established Auction Houses: Auction houses like Christie's, Sotheby's, and Phillips regularly feature vintage Rolex watches, including Red Submariners. However, bidding requires careful research and understanding of auction dynamics.
• Online Marketplaces (with Caution): Online platforms can offer wider selection, but exercise extreme caution. Thoroughly vet sellers, request detailed photos and videos, and consider using escrow services. Be wary of deals that seem "too good to be true."

Caring for Your Red Submariner: Preserving a Piece of History

Owning a Red Submariner is not just about possessing a beautiful watch; it's about being a custodian of a piece of horological history. Proper care and maintenance are essential to preserve its value and ensure its longevity:

• Regular Servicing: Vintage watches require regular servicing by a qualified watchmaker experienced with vintage Rolex movements. Typically, servicing is recommended every 5-7 years, or sooner if you notice any issues with timekeeping.
• Gentle Handling: While Submariners are robust, treat your Red Submariner with care. Avoid extreme shocks, impacts, and exposure to harsh chemicals or extreme temperatures.
• Water Resistance: Vintage Submariners have aged seals and gaskets. While they were originally designed for diving, it's generally advisable to avoid submerging a vintage Red Submariner in water unless it has been recently pressure-tested by a qualified watchmaker. Even then, exercise caution.
• Proper Storage: When not wearing your Red Submariner, store it in a cool, dry place, ideally in a watch box or safe. Avoid storing it in direct sunlight or humid environments.
• Insurance: Given the value of a Red Submariner, ensure it is properly insured against loss, theft, or damage. Obtain a professional appraisal for accurate valuation.

Conclusion: The Enduring Allure of the Red Face Submariner

The Rolex Red Face Submariner is more than just a vintage watch; it's a symbol of horological innovation, a testament to Rolex's enduring legacy, and a highly desirable collectible. Its unique combination of the date complication, the striking red "Submariner" inscription, and its limited production period have cemented its status as an icon. Whether you are a seasoned collector or a budding enthusiast, the Red Submariner represents a fascinating chapter in watchmaking history and a rewarding pursuit for those seeking a truly special timepiece. Its enduring appeal ensures that the "Red Face" Submariner will continue to captivate and inspire generations of watch lovers to come.

FAQ: Your Burning Questions Answered

Frequently Asked Questions About the Red Face Submariner

• Q: What is the price range for a Red Face Submariner?

  A: Prices vary widely depending on condition, dial Mark, presence of original box and papers, and market fluctuations. Generally, expect to pay anywhere from $20,000 USD for a watch in fair condition (dial wear, polished case) to well over $100,000 USD for exceptional examples in mint condition with full sets and desirable Marks. Prices are constantly evolving, so consulting current auction results and dealer listings is essential.

• Q: How can I tell if a Red Face Submariner is authentic?

  A: Authentication requires expertise and careful examination. Look for correct dial printing, font styles, coronet shape, case engravings, movement details (caliber 1575), and bracelet characteristics. Compare to known authentic examples. Purchasing from reputable vintage Rolex dealers or seeking authentication from watch experts is highly recommended.

• Q: What are the most desirable Red Submariner Marks?

  A: Generally, earlier Marks (Mk I and Mk II) are often considered more desirable by some collectors due to their earlier production and sometimes perceived rarity. However, condition and overall originality often outweigh the specific Mark in terms of value. All genuine Red Submariner Marks are collectible.

• Q: Is the Red Submariner a good investment?

  A: Historically, Red Submariners have proven to be excellent investments, appreciating significantly in value over the long term. However, like any investment, there are risks and market fluctuations. Thorough research, careful purchasing, and long-term perspective are crucial for successful vintage watch investing.

• Q: Can I still dive with a vintage Red Submariner?

  A: While Red Submariners were originally designed as dive watches, it is generally not advisable to dive with a vintage example unless it has been recently and professionally serviced, pressure-tested, and deemed safe for diving by a qualified watchmaker. Even then, exercise caution. Many collectors prefer to preserve their Red Submariners for their historical and collectible value rather than subjecting them to the rigors of diving. Modern dive watches offer superior performance and reliability for underwater activities.

References and Sources

While specific URLs are dynamic, the information in this article is based on general knowledge of Rolex watches and vintage watch collecting, commonly available through resources like:

• Rolex Official Website: (For historical context on the Submariner line)
• Vintage Rolex Forums and Communities: (e.g., Rolex Forums, WatchUSeek Vintage & Pocket Watches Forum) - Valuable for discussions and information sharing among collectors.
• Reputable Vintage Watch Dealer Websites: (e.g., Bob's Watches, HQ Milton, Crown & Caliber) - Often provide educational content and detailed watch descriptions.
• Books on Rolex Watches: (e.g., "Rolex: History, Collecting and Wristwatches" by Guido Mondani, "Vintage Rolex: The Reference Book" by Davide Parmegiani) - Comprehensive guides for in-depth research.
• Auction House Archives: (Christie's, Sotheby's, Phillips) - Past auction results provide insights into market trends and values.

Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and should not be considered financial or investment advice. Always conduct thorough research and consult with qualified professionals before making any purchase decisions related to vintage watches.