Elgin watches, especially those adorned with diamonds, hold a certain allure. They represent a bygone era of American watchmaking, a time when quality and craftsmanship were paramount. But with their increasing value and popularity, the market has also seen a rise in counterfeit Elgin diamond watches. This comprehensive guide will delve deep into the world of Elgin diamond watches, providing you with the knowledge and tools to discern a genuine piece from a clever imitation. We'll explore the history, characteristics, and telltale signs that will help you answer the crucial question: is this Elgin diamond watch real or fake?

A Brief History of Elgin Watches

Before we dive into authentication, understanding the rich history of Elgin is crucial. The Elgin National Watch Company, originally known as the National Watch Company, was founded in Elgin, Illinois, in 1864. For over a century, Elgin produced millions of timepieces, becoming one of the largest watch manufacturers in the United States. Their watches were known for their reliability, accuracy, and diverse designs, ranging from simple pocket watches to ornate wristwatches embellished with precious stones. The company ceased US production in 1968, but the name was later sold and continues to be used on imported watches, often blurring the line between vintage and contemporary pieces.

Why Elgin Diamond Watches are Targeted by Counterfeiters

The scarcity and desirability of vintage Elgin diamond watches make them prime targets for counterfeiters. Several factors contribute to this:

• Intrinsic Value: Genuine Elgin diamond watches contain precious metals like gold and diamonds, adding to their inherent worth.
• Historical Significance: The brand's long and respected history increases its appeal to collectors.
• Profit Margin: Replicating an Elgin diamond watch, even with lower quality materials, can yield a significant profit for counterfeiters.
• Nostalgia Factor: Many people are drawn to vintage Elgin watches for their sentimental value and connection to the past.

Key Elements to Examine When Determining Authenticity

When assessing an Elgin diamond watch, consider these critical elements:

1. The Movement: The Heart of the Matter

The movement is arguably the most important indicator of authenticity. Elgin movements were known for their quality and precision. Here's what to look for:

• Movement Markings: Genuine Elgin movements are clearly marked with the "Elgin" name, the grade number, and the jewel count. Examine these markings carefully for clarity and consistency. Spelling errors or inconsistencies are red flags.
• Movement Serial Number: Each Elgin movement has a unique serial number. This number can be used to date the watch using online databases (see "Resources" section below). A missing or obscured serial number should raise suspicion.
• Movement Quality and Finish: Elgin movements typically feature a clean, well-finished appearance. Look for smooth surfaces, consistent plating, and properly aligned components. A crude or poorly finished movement is a sign of a fake.
• Movement Type: Elgin predominantly used mechanical (manual-wind and automatic) movements. Quartz movements in vintage Elgin watches are virtually non-existent and strongly suggest a fake or a later replacement.

Actionable Insight: Have the movement inspected by a qualified watchmaker. They can identify subtle inconsistencies or modifications that might indicate a counterfeit.

2. The Case: Material, Markings, and Construction

The watch case provides valuable clues about its authenticity:

• Material: Elgin watches were commonly made from gold (various karats), gold-filled, or stainless steel. Test the metal using appropriate methods (acid testing for gold) to verify its composition. A cheap alloy is a clear sign of a fake.
• Case Markings: Look for hallmarks or stamps indicating the metal content (e.g., "14K," "10K Gold Filled"). These markings should be clear and consistent with the stated material.
• Case Construction: Elgin cases were typically well-constructed with tight seams and a secure fit. A poorly constructed case with gaps or misalignments suggests a fake.
• Case Style: Research the specific Elgin model you're examining to ensure the case style is consistent with authentic examples. Counterfeiters often use generic cases.

Actionable Insight: Research the specific model number of your watch (often found inside the case back) to verify the correct case material and style.

3. The Dial: Details Matter

The dial is often the first thing people notice, making it a crucial area for scrutiny:

• Brand Name and Logo: The "Elgin" name and logo should be crisp, clear, and accurately rendered. Any blurring, misspellings, or inconsistencies indicate a fake.
• Dial Material and Finish: Original Elgin dials were typically made of enamel, porcelain, or metal. The finish should be smooth and even. Pay attention to the texture and color consistency.
• Markers and Numerals: The markers and numerals should be precisely applied and consistent with the style of the watch. Uneven spacing or misalignment is a red flag.
• Subdials: If the watch features subdials (e.g., for seconds or chronograph functions), examine their functionality and alignment. Non-functional or poorly aligned subdials are common in fakes.
• "Swiss Made" Marking: Unless it's a legitimate vintage Elgin made for export and specifically marked Swiss Made, it's highly likely a fake. Elgin was an American company.

Actionable Insight: Compare the dial of your watch to images of authentic Elgin watches online or in reference books. Pay close attention to the font, spacing, and details of the markings.

4. The Diamonds: Assessing Quality and Setting

The diamonds themselves require careful examination:

• Diamond Quality: Genuine Elgin diamond watches used diamonds of varying quality, but generally, they were of decent clarity and cut. Examine the diamonds using a loupe to assess their clarity, cut, and color. Cloudy or poorly cut diamonds are a cause for concern.
• Diamond Setting: The diamonds should be securely set in the case. Loose or unevenly set diamonds suggest poor craftsmanship and potentially a fake.
• Diamond Cut and Shape: Research the typical diamond cuts and shapes used in Elgin watches of the period. Unusual or anachronistic cuts could indicate a replacement or a counterfeit.
• Diamond Testing: Consider having the diamonds tested by a gemologist to verify their authenticity and quality. Diamond testers can quickly identify genuine diamonds from cubic zirconia or other simulants.
• Number and Placement of Diamonds: Compare the diamond placement to known authentic models. Variations can indicate a fake.

Actionable Insight: Consult a qualified gemologist for a professional appraisal of the diamonds. This is the best way to definitively assess their quality and authenticity.

5. Overall Condition and Consistency

The overall condition of the watch can provide valuable clues about its authenticity:

• Wear and Tear: Authentic vintage watches will show signs of wear consistent with their age. Excessive wear or damage that seems inconsistent with the age of the watch should raise suspicion. Conversely, a watch claiming to be decades old that looks brand new should also be questioned.
• Consistency: Ensure all the components of the watch are consistent with each other in terms of style, age, and quality. A mix-and-match of parts from different eras is a strong indicator of a fake or a heavily modified watch.
• Seller Reputation: Purchase from reputable dealers or auction houses with a proven track record of selling authentic vintage watches. Check online reviews and ask for references.

Resources for Identifying Authentic Elgin Watches

• Elgin National Watch Company Serial Number Database: Pocket Watch Database (Note: While primarily focused on pocket watches, it can be helpful for dating wristwatches as well)
• Elgin Watch Collectors Forum: Online forums dedicated to Elgin watches can provide valuable information and expert opinions.
• Books on Elgin Watches: Consider purchasing reference books on Elgin watches to learn more about their history, models, and characteristics.
• Qualified Watchmakers and Gemologists: Professionals can provide expert appraisals and authentication services.

FAQ: Common Questions About Elgin Diamond Watch Authenticity

Q: My Elgin diamond watch has a quartz movement. Is it fake?

A: Almost certainly. Elgin predominantly used mechanical movements. While later Elgin-branded watches (post-1968) might have quartz movements, a vintage Elgin with a quartz movement is highly suspect.

Q: The diamonds in my Elgin watch are small. Does that mean it's fake?

A: Not necessarily. The size and quality of the diamonds varied depending on the model and price point of the watch. However, if the diamonds are exceptionally poor quality or appear to be simulants, it could be a sign of a fake.

Q: I can't find a serial number on the movement. Is my watch a fake?

A: It's possible. Serial numbers were generally stamped on the movement of Elgin watches. However, they can be difficult to locate or may have been rubbed off over time. Have a watchmaker carefully inspect the movement for a serial number.

Q: The case back says "Base Metal Bezel." Is that normal for an Elgin diamond watch?

A: No, it is not a good sign if the watch is claiming to be made of gold. 'Base Metal Bezel' indicates that the bezel is made from a non-precious metal and likely a fake Elgin diamond watch.

Q: How much does it cost to get an Elgin watch authenticated?

A: The cost of authentication can vary depending on the complexity of the watch and the qualifications of the appraiser. Expect to pay anywhere from $50 to several hundred dollars for a thorough examination and appraisal.

Conclusion

Determining whether an Elgin diamond watch is real or fake requires a keen eye, attention to detail, and a thorough understanding of the brand's history and characteristics. By carefully examining the movement, case, dial, and diamonds, and by seeking expert advice when necessary, you can significantly increase your chances of identifying a genuine Elgin timepiece. Remember to buy from reputable sources and to do your research before making a purchase. Investing the time and effort to authenticate an Elgin diamond watch will not only protect you from fraud but also allow you to fully appreciate the craftsmanship and historical significance of these remarkable timepieces.